Tirana, Albania
We spent January in Tirana, Albania.
This wasn’t my first time here—I actually spent three months in Tirana last year, in late spring and early summer. So this trip in the middle of winter felt a bit like a homecoming.
Since starting my slow travels through Europe in early 2024, I haven’t spent more time anywhere than I have in Tirana. It’s the only city I’ve returned to, and by now, I have my go-to cafés, comfort meals, and actual friendships rooted here.
There are only so many places outside the EU/Schengen zone that are easy to dip into for a visa reset—and Tirana has become my go-to. It’s affordable, well-connected, and incredibly easy to fly in and out of.
At first, the city can feel a little intense. it’s fast-moving, gritty, and loud—but it’s also warm, walkable, and surprisingly easy to settle into. Maybe it’s the tight-knit layout of the city center. Maybe it’s the hospitality. Either way, it’s been the easiest “yes” so far when I’ve needed to step out of the EU.
Here are a few of my favorite finds:
Hana Corner Cafe
Top 5 Coffee Shops in Tirana
1. Hana Corner Cafe
A cozy corner spot with solid coffee—but the matcha is the star. It’s organic, rich, and worth the stop. Don’t leave without a slice of their cheesecake. (Cash only.)
2. Destil Creative Hub
A favorite among digital nomads, but also a local hangout. Brunch, work sessions, and casual catch-ups all happen here. It’s got a good balance of buzz and calm.
3. Le Bon
Great lighting, clean design, and a diverse menu. You’ll find everything from fresh juices to Albanian classics. It gets busy at lunch but has a more relaxed weekend feel.
4. Mr. Chef (Kavaja St. location)
More of a self-serve restaurant than a café, but very laptop-friendly. The design is modern, the vibe is chill, and the food is affordable and surprisingly good.
5. Mulliri i Vjetër
Albania’s own coffee chain. They serve solid drinks (with soya milk!) and accept card payments. Not every location is great for Wi-Fi, but these three usually are:
Mulliri Rruga Bardhyl
Mulliri Plus – Rruga Reshit Petrela 15
Mulliri Gourmet – Rruga Pjeter Bogdani
Foods I Obsessed Over
Byrek from Furrë Buke Pastiçeri Tito
Just a block from where I stayed, this bakery has some of the best mini cheese and spinach byrek—flaky, savory, and the kind of thing you crave even after you’ve left.
Stuffed Eggplant
An Albanian comfort dish, full of savory spices and depth. My go-tos are at Mr. Chef and Le Bon for a quick, solid version.
Tavë Dheu from Ferma100
Hearty, creamy, and perfect on a cold day. The view at Ferma100 makes the meal even better.
Events
to Check Out
Color Day Festival
A full-on joy explosion—music, dancing, and colored powder everywhere. It’s high energy and easy to join, whether you plan it or stumble upon it.
Albanian Independence Day
One of the best times to be in the city. Fireworks, parades, music, and this big collective pride you can feel in the air.
Neighborhood Vibes
Blloku
Trendy, buzzy, and packed with cafés and nightlife. If you like to be in the middle of things, this is the spot.
21 Dhjetori
Central, convenient, and more local. It’s got everything you need without being overwhelming.
Grand Park & Artificial Lake
Quieter, greener, great for walks or morning runs. A good option if you want to stay close to nature while still being in the city.
Don Bosko
Modern buildings, friendly vibes, and easy access to shops and cafés. It feels a bit more suburban but still connected.
Before You Go…
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Faleminderit (Thank you).