Belgrade, Serbia
We spent July in Belgrade last year, and it was hot. Like, really hot. 2024 was officially the hottest year on record.
That meant high 30s to low 40s degrees Celsius.
I’ve been in that kind of heat before, years ago, during a summer van trip across Europe.
But when you haven’t felt it in a while, it’s still a shock to the system. And so, most of the time, I was in hibernation mode.
Ironically, we chose to stay in the smallest Airbnb we’ve ever booked. But we really warmed up to it.
Everything was new yet homey. The bed was small but ridiculously comfortable.
We liked being near the new Belgrade Waterfront, a modern redevelopment along the Sava River with cafes, restaurants, and wide pedestrian promenades.
Belgrade Waterfront Promenade at sunset
Belgrade, the capital city of Serbia, is set where the Sava and Danube rivers meet. It’s one of the biggest cities in the Balkans.
Belgrade’s a mix of socialist-era blocks, Austro-Hungarian buildings, and gritty charm. Brutalist architecture is common here.
But what stood out most was the graffiti. It’s everywhere, so we picked a few favorites and did a quick photo shoot.
And even though I didn’t walk much, because again, the heat, I still found some gems.
A coffee shop I worked from regularly, and maybe the best pan-fried Chinese dumplings I’ve ever had outside of Asia.
In fact, as I’m writing this, it’s making me want to go back for another month-long stay (just maybe not in the Summer).
So without further ado…below are my favourites:
Foods I obsessed over
Coffee shops to work from
Places & moments that stood out
So let’s get into it…
Foods I obsessed over
1. Pan-Fried Dumplings from Good Dumplings (Brankov)
Crispy on the bottom, SUPER juicy inside, and genuinely some of the best I’ve ever had. You have to eat this fresh and hot. So consider eating it there.
2. Olive and Walnut Baguettes from Baget & Co
Crunchy, soft, salty, nutty, it hits the spot every time. They’re baked fresh daily. I’d pick one up early in the morning and snack on it throughout the day.
3. Brunch at June Cafe
I felt cool just being there. Airy, stylish, and full of brunch favorites, it’s the kind of spot locals love and visitors feel lucky to find.
4. Viennoiserie from SLOJ Bistro & Bakery (Dorcol)
Flaky pastries with the perfect shatter, filled with creative twists, and always beautifully made. The space feels like a neighborhood café with a modern edge.
Coffee shops to work from
1. Chernyi Cooperative Coffee Roasters
A minimalist space with a slightly industrial vibe. Think concrete floors, high ceilings, and big windows. We met a digital nomad couple here, which instantly gave this place extra points in our books.
2. Kafeterija & Bookmarkers Klub Čitalaca
On the second floor of a bookstore, right in the city center, with windows that overlook the street below. On laptop breaks, I loved leafing through their English-language section.
3. Rocket Coffee
Our go-to café is just minutes from our Airbnb. Bright, playful interior with retro records and small design touches. Strong air con, reliable Wi Fi, and always a few others working nearby.
4. Baget & Co
Yes, again—because the interior is genuinely cozy. There’s a quiet nook in the back with a few tables and surprisingly comfy chairs. Friendly staff and a solid menu of coffee and pastries make it an easy favorite.
Moments that stood out
Morning Stillness on the Promenade
On the rare mornings I managed to beat the heat, I’d walk down to the river while the city was still half asleep.
The sun hadn’t fully pushed through the haze, and the pavement was still cool from the night.
I rolled out my mat on this little part of the promenade that stretches out over the river — the perfect little nook that makes you feel like it’s just you and the water.
In a month where the heat ruled everything, these early hours are a gift.
The Softness of Sunset by the River
Along the Sava, the new waterfront is a point of controversy amongst locals. The glitzy developments and generic modern residential high rises seem to draw more eye rolls than admiration.
I can understand why. But as a visitor, I appreciated it. Maybe because it reminded me of Vancouver. And maybe locals do not like it for that same reason. “It is just like” another city somewhere else in the world.
And yet, at sunset, the light turns everything gold. Toddlers weave through crowds on scooters, couples sit with legs swinging over the edge, and waiters move between outdoor tables with trays of cold drinks.
Just people being where they want to be, doing nothing in particular. And it felt like the most beautiful part of the day.
Before You Go…
Is the Balkans calling your name? 🇷🇸☕️
Whether you’ve been curious about Belgrade or wandered its riverside promenades before, I’d love to hear your stories — email me at hello@kaphryn.com.
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Thank you — or as they say in Serbia, hvala!
